Small-Block Stroker

 

I was seriously considering purchasing a crate motor and just doing a motor swap.  This would be the quickest and simplest fix to my motor problem.  After some careful thought, I decided to go the 'hard' way and build the motor myself.  This took longer and was more difficult, but every time I tell somebody I built the motor, I'm proud to say it.

I decided to go with a small-block to save some money and because parts would be easy to come by.  In addition, I should be able to get the power I was looking for out of a small-block without much trouble.  Here are some of the parts I went with:

UPDATE (2/10/2001): I changed the composite head gaskets for a set of steel shim gaskets.  The compressed thickness of the new gaskets is .015", compared to the old gaskets thickness of .041".  This raised the compression from 10.6:1 to 11.2:1.  It also improved the quench area of the motor by reducing it from .066" to .040".  I will most likely start mixing some racing fuel in with the regular 92 unleaded when I race now.

UPDATE (3/1/2001): I replaced the crappy plastic flex fan with an electric fan from a Lincoln Mark VIII.  This fan moves a ton of air (more than any of the aftermarket ones) and can be had for $99.  It works great and frees up some power lost with the mechanical fan.  See the install here...

UPDATE (5/25/2001): I replaced the Performer RPM Air-Gap intake with a new Victor Jr. intake.  I used part #2900, which is already port matched to the heads.

UPDATE (6/8/2001): I strapped the car to the Dynojet at Superior Automotive Engineering in Anaheim, CA.  The car put down 375 HP to the rear wheels.  This is the equivalent of 475-500 HP at the crank (depending on whose formula you use).  See the dyno sheet here.

UPDATE (12/2001): I added the Holley Strip Annihilator ignition system.  I had to convert my MSD Ready-To-Run distributor, to a standard magnetic trigger output to get the Holley to work correctly.  I'm using the Holley LaserShot Pro coil with the new ignition box.  This system has a wired remote programmer that allows you to adjust 3 different rev limiters, two rpm triggers, and several other features from the driver's seat.  I'm using one of the rpm switches to activate a stand-alone shift light.

 

Here's a couple pictures of the engine with just the heads on:

Engine1.jpg (47991 bytes)            Engine2.jpg (50832 bytes)

 

Here's the completed engine getting ready for installation:

Engine3.jpg (44269 bytes)            Engine4.jpg (41325 bytes)            Engine5.jpg (56306 bytes)

 

  Updated engine pics taken on 11/2/2000:

Engine110200asmljpg.jpg (52990 bytes)            Engine110200bsml.jpg (54552 bytes)            Engine110200csml.jpg (57745 bytes)            Engine110200hsml.jpg (56776 bytes)

 

 

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